The exact details of the blaster Harrison Ford carried in Blade Runner have been debated for many years and it was only after the resourceful Karl Tate.
shot a beautiful series of hi-resolution pictures of the original prop (long thought to be lost), that the true build was unveiled.
Over the years the blaster has been released by various individuals with the most aesthetically pleasing – in my opinion - being the elegant resin blasters
produced by Rick Ross. More recently we have been spoilt by other brilliant individuals creating newer releases such as the pristine WorldCon's produced
by RAC Props, SidKit and more recently, the stunning Tomenosuke limited edition blaster.
While we can argue the merits and accuracy of each (as well as the accusations of re-casting), I have to admit to being profoundly grateful to all of
the gifted people who have made it their business to produce fabulous replica’s for the rest of us to build and enjoy.
Siderio's sad departure spurred me onto acquiring one of his last blaster releases and these pages are a documentation of the Work In Progress of
my metal SidKit model #114.
Siderio's original on-line construction guide is archived here (Link)
The clean casting of the Sidkits has long been admired – even by Siderio’s harshest critics - and each of the individual Pewter elements was perfectly
produced and packaged. One of the downsides of the SidKit is that the Pewter is not as hard as the metal Rich used in the RAC blaster and because of this,
I opted to hand rub each part with sandpaper and polish it as opposed to using a Dremel tool. I was worried the Dremel would remove too much metal
and render some of the fine detail soft and indistinct. I had studied some replica’s that have been built out of real Steyr and Bulldog parts and the
smooth polished finish of a real firearm always stood out. I wanted to try and reproduce the solid, clean finish I had seen - so it was important to
buff each piece until it was smooth and polished.
Picture 01: Test fitting the bodywork - A Rick Ross PKD in the Background / Picture 02: All the parts were hand polished and fit was compared with existing reference material
For me, its a prop first and foremost and I've never regarded the blaster as something the character Rick Deckard actually did carry -
because as Ford so eloquently stated in an interview: "Fuck it, its only a movie!". Since my feelings towards the blaster are firmly rooted in the
real world, I made the
decision to try and make it reflect the prop as we know it from the great
reference photo's of Karl T.
I decided to concentrate on the aesthetic elements and correct only those parts that I felt were simply too far off the mark and the back end
of the Steyr bolt required a lot of filing and careful fitting to get it to sit correctly. For this I used only fine metal files and model builders
needle files. The Bulldog cylinder release catch screw is also very different so I flattened the head and tried to give it the shallow
profile similar to a genuine one.
Picture 03: Filing and setting the fit of the Steyr bolt assembly / Picture 04: The Bulldog release catch screw was totally incorrect - it required extensive remodeling and polishing
Another thing that worried me was the barrel because the inner diameter was totally wrong for the Bulldog round. I don't have the facilities to heat
metal or I might have been inclined to try and re-cast the entire piece. Living in Australia (with our strict firearm laws) its also not a simple case
of dropping in on my friendly gun dealer to ask for a replacement. In the end I opted to insert the pink cap that is supplied with the kit and I
carefully drilled out the centre to the correct diameter. I hand filed the bevel on the outer rim of the barrel and then, after sanding the pink end-cap
flush with the existing barrel, I masked the end and sprayed it flat black with a heavy-duty paint. Finally, before the paint was dry, I rubbed in
shaved graphite particles to give it a metallic sheen.
Picture 05: I hand filed the outer bevel profile / Picture 06: The plastic end-cap I inserted and drilled to the correct diameter / Picture 07: Painted and rubbed with graphite
I replaced the brass hollow trigger rods with solid steel one's and then in preparation for the blueing, I test fitted all the individual pieces
together taking care not to strip the soft screw threads. Finally I re-polished and cleaned all the parts for the next step in the build process...
Picture 08: Test fitting the pieces together. Care must be taken with the soft screw threads / Picture 09: I replaced the hollow brass trigger rods with solid steel pins
Page Two: Blue Wonder and Painting