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The first thing I did was to try and replicate the finish on the amber grips as is seen on the original prop. Its my opinion that the white residue embedded in the grips comes from frequent polishing of the handles during filming (this observation is further supported by what looks like more white polish residue in the rear grip screw recess).

Using Brasso metal polish, I gently laid down a fairly thick layer over the grips and let it dry. Using a soft rag, I then removed the polish leaving behind a small amount in the grooves of the grips.

Pictures 01 and 02: A heavy layer of Brasso laid over the grips. A soft cloth was used to carefully remove excess polish

The Butt plate was the next item destined for special attention and using Karl's reference of the wear, I hand painted the scuff marks using a mixture of Humbrol, flat black and flat grey model paint. To recreate the scuff marks on the metal sides - as is seen on the original - I used a fine  metal saw to gently cut the single deeper ridge evident on the prop and then using a rough brick, I created the other gouge marks by passing the metal over the surface of the brick in a firm, single downward motion. This was repeated lightly on the front as well.

BTW, I used a brick because the rough surface gave me the random wear pattern I was after.

Picture 03: Painting the bottom wear using a high-res print of the original as reference  / Picture 04: The front and rear gouge marks were made using a saw and a brick surface

The plastic side covers and the Steyr magazine in my kit were the metal versions. I was tempted to acquire a plastic set but decided that I preferred the weight of the blaster with the metal pieces attached.

I primed the 'plastic' parts using a heavy duty auto primer and them sprayed over the primer with black spray paint (I also painted the Binding Post knob, but I didn't prime it first because I wanted to rub the paint off to reveal the metal).

Once the paint was dry, I finished the 'plastic' parts with a satin sheen varnish and then, just before it was completely dry, I carefully rubbed in a light layer of Brasso to give it a slightly dull, off color finish. The Brasso also sat in the recesses perfectly which enhanced the worn look I was striving for (NB. The Brasso was used sparingly and buffed off very carefully to avoid exposing the metal or the primer). 

Once this was done, using a very sharp tool, I carefully replicated all the scratch marks and chips seen on the Worldcon blaster side covers. Finally, with the same tool and using a series of horizontal strokes, I gouged the back end of the Site-rod cover where it looks like the movie blaster was thrown onto concrete during the filming (see picture 06 below). The Steyr magazine was left 'unchipped' because aside from shallow surface scratches in the plastic it shows no evidence that it was painted or primed.

Pictures 05 & 06: The metal side covers and the magazine were sprayed black and then careful attention was given to creating the scuff marks that are seen on the original

Finally, came the time to blue the surface of the blaster. I was able to secure a kit of BlueWonder chemical blue and I applied about 8 coats in total. Between each coat I warmed the metal using a hair dryer so that it was hot - but not too hot to touch (this is explained in the BlueWonder instruction video). When I had finished treating the metal surface, I used the developer agent (supplied in the kit) to bring out the color and as it was drying, I rubbed in very soft, shaved graphite pencil particles - this I found deepened the color even more and gave it a slightly richer luster. The graphite won't stay on the metal, but it lies in the recesses and this extra sheen sits well with the concept of wear and tear on the metal surface.

The overall blueing effect is very satisfying but it can't work as well as it would on normal steel though because the gold and silver particles contained in the chemical normally create a rust on a metal surface (that's the process of chemical based blueing), but to my eye the fact that the end result is a lighter brown hue - rather than the usual blue hue - on the pewter, made the blaster look more worn as opposed to being brand new.....

Picture 08: The BlueWonder Kit with cleaner, factory blue and developer  / Picture 09: The end result was a satisfactory darkening of the white metal surface

Page Three: Rust and other small details